2009-03-17 ミシュランのガイドブック。
_ フランスのタイヤ・メーカーのミシュランが,こんどは旅行案内『ギド・ベール(緑のガイド)』日本編を刊行した。
こんどはと書いたのは,すばらく前に,東京のレストランをランクづけする旅行案内書を刊行して,かなりの反響があったからだ。とりわけ,日本料理をどんな基準でランクづけしたのか,それがわからないというところに批判が集中していたように思う。わたしも,その議論の経過をみながら,同じことを思っていた。なぜなら,フランス人の味覚で押し通した(完結した)のか,それとも日本人の評判も加味されているのか,という点が曖昧だったからだ。
今回は,日本各地の観光地を三つ星で格付けした,というのである。ミシュランが自前で格付けするのは勝手だが,はたして,なにを基準にしてこれを決めたのか。一応の基準はあるようだが,われわれ日本人の感覚とはずいぶんとズレがあることは間違いない。
たとえば,東京に限定してみても,以下のとおりである。
上野が三つ星,銀座は二つ星,国立西洋美術館は一つ星,という具合である。この三者の間の違いは,われわれ日本人には理解しがたいものがある。フランス人は,この三つを,どのように差異化したのだろうか。その内実を知りたいものだ。
まあ,そんなことは多少,どうでもいい。一番大事なことは,世界のホテルの格付けで,一定の権威が評価されているミシュランが,日本の観光地を「格付け」するということの,なんともいいようのない傲慢さに,わたしは許しがたい違和感をもつ。ホテルくらいのレベルであれは,まあ,なんとなく格付けをすることも理解できる。施設・設備,サービス,利便性,などかなり客観的な比較ができる。それと比べたら,この間のレストランの格付けは,大いに首を傾げたものである。そして,こんどの観光地だ。ことここにいたっては,もはや,理解不能である。しかも,あまりにも「不遜」ではないか。
何回も言うが,フランス人の感覚で観光地を格付けするという発想が,なにか,いやなものを感じてしまう。いつから,世界の中心はフランスになってしまったのか。いつから,旅行に関してはミシュランが中心になってしまったのか。時刻表を刊行しているくらいまでは,まことに微笑ましいと思っていたが,とうとう「観光地」の格付けまでするようになったとは。しかも,遠い,東洋の観光地まで。ものの見方,感じ方,価値観,思想,宗教,風俗・習慣,とうとうに至るまでまるで違うではないか。そこに,「ミシュラン基準」を押しつけてくる,この「厚かましさ」。そう,ユーロセントリズムの押しつけ。
たった一つの価値観で,世界を評価して平気でいられる,そこになんの矛盾も感じない人たちがいる,しかも,この人たちが世界を牛耳っている,この事実。ミシュランの「格付け」はまさにその典型例の一つ。もっと言ってしまえば,キリスト教文化圏の価値観による「世界制覇」。
いま,流行りの「グローバリゼーション」ということばの裏側には,こういう諸矛盾が隠されている。言ってしまえば,経済力,軍事力の強い国や地域の価値観や文化による「世界制覇」。ただ,これだけ。ある日,静かな郊外の森に,ブルドーザーがやってきて,一気に地ならしをして,宅地造成をしてうまうようなもの。
その尖兵の一つとして,わたしの眼には,ミシュランの「格付け」が写る。こうしてなし崩し的に,ミシュラン基準による観光地の「格付け」が行われていく。ちなみに,一つ星をつけられた,名古屋,札幌,福岡,鹿児島,などの人びとはなんと思うだろうか。
こんなことに目くじら立てることもないではないか,と諫める人もいるだろう。もっと大人になったら,と慰めてくれる人もいるだろう。しかし,そうではないのだ。スポーツのルールの策定の仕方は,これとほとんど同じなのだ。これまでの歴史を振り返ってみれば,そのことは歴然としている。日本人選手が活躍すると,すぐに,ルール改正(改悪というべき)がなされる。水泳競技の「潜水泳法」(古川選手による世界新記録),スキーのジャンプ(日の丸飛行隊の活躍),体操競技,女子バレー,などなど。スポーツのルール基準はすべてヨーロッパ。オリンピックの約束事もすべてヨーロッパ発。
そして,いま,また,「グローバリゼーション」という名のもとに,文化の再編,再統合が行われようとしている。だからこそ,ミシュランの今回の観光地の「格付け」に関しては「ほっといてくれ」というのがホンネである。そこまでやるのであれば,だれか,日本発のフランスの観光地「格付け」本を発行して,世界に売り出したらどうだろう。誇り高きフランス人のプライドは著しく傷つけられることだろう。
わたしがいいたのは,グローバル化してはいけない文化も存在する,ということ。そういう文化にまで,勝手に土足で乗り込んでくることは許せない,ということ。「グローバリゼーション」は諸刃の剣であるということ。文化の違いについては「アンタッチャブル」にすべきだということ。
ああ,愚痴っぽくなってしまった。この辺でおしまい。
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